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You can see it as a kind of “guilty pleasure”. Conversely, you might consider it the ingredient that perfects almost every dish in the Western Hemisphere. But either way, I bet you have a piece or two of butter in your fridge right now.
When I used to live in Vermont and mostly shop for local brands, my refrigerator was never without a piece of “Vermont Creamery” (Vermont Creamery), fermented in European style, with 86% fat, and wrapped in paper. I used it sparingly in pan sauces and spread it on bread, so it was relatively “reasonably opulent.”
But I ended up moving to Texas, then Virginia, and marrying someone who used butter very generously. My departure from Green Mountain (Vermont's nickname) and reducing my butter budget means that the days of “Vermont Creamery” are mostly over and replaced by “Tillamook Extra Creamy” butter, which is much cheaper. It contains 81% butter fat, which is slightly higher than the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)'s 80% requirements that have been in place since 1989.
I enjoy “Tlamock” butter, but I realize that it is not the same as “Vermont Creamery.” As the holidays approach, I've been thinking about returning quality butter to my menu, at least for hospitality purposes. And who cooks for guests every day? Chefs! I decided to ask some of the best chefs in the country for their opinion on what makes butter worth its price.
Chef, author, and TV personality Judy Joo (Judy Joo) says she buys artisanal butter exclusively for her meals at home. She describes, “The high fat and (often) fermented character make it taste better in every way, and even its appearance is different - a deeper golden color thanks to beta-carotene from the meals of grass-fed cows.”
The term “cultured” butter refers to a type of butter to which live bacterial cultures are added. Butter ferments slightly, like yogurt, resulting in a pungent flavor (tanginess) that ranges from mild to very strong, depending on how long it has been fermented.
Jo goes on to explain that the more expensive types of butter you buy usually contain about 82% butter fat and cost 10 to 40 percent more than traditional American butters. What is her favorite? American European-style Plugrá and Irish Kerrygold, both with 82%.
However, there are types of American-made butter with a fat content of 87%. At the two-Michelin-starred restaurant The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, culinary director Julian Eckhart says there's no such thing as expensive or super-rich butter to serve his guests. “Our table butter [from Animal Farm Creamery in Vermont] is very special,” he says. “It may also be one of the most expensive types, but we think it's worth every penny.” This slightly “aged” (slightly funky) butter made from grass-fed cows is already in a category of its own. But do all chefs rely on high-quality butter?
At Butter in New York City by chef, TV personality, and author Alex Guarnaschelli (Alex Guarnaschelli), her team prepares their own in-house version using a combination of cream, sour cream and herbs. At her restaurant “Clara” (Clara), they prepare another recipe for fermented butter from scratch. But when it comes to cooking at home, Guarnaschelli says, “I have a classic American butter that I use for baking and salty cooking and another salted butter for the table to serve with bread.”
Although Guarnaselli is no stranger to the pleasure of good butter, she says there are advantages to sticking to 80% butter fat. She explains, “I like American butter the most. It pairs well when cooking with American recipe books and recipes and I love the taste.”
But even the practical and budget-conscious Guarnaschelli is beyond pampering. She jokes: “Sometimes when I feel fancy (feeling fancy) or nostalgic for my years in France, I buy “fancy” French butter (fancypants) and eat it with bread - I tell myself I'll never buy it again - and then I buy it again and again.”
Geoffrey Zakarian, chef, TV personality and president of the Food Council at City Harvest, says he prefers the French “Maison Lescure” butter for cooking. “I only use 85% fat French butter, salted and unsalted,” he says. “There is no comparison in taste or flavor, whether raw or cooked.”
He admits that he only cooked with the highest quality types of butter and defends the “big” price difference by the fact that he usually needs less of it. “It's pure butter with no whipped water inside, so a little is enough,” he says.
The easy answer shared by chefs is “everything,” but if budget is a barrier, there are certain uses for which it might be worth spending more. “It really depends on what the butter is used for,” says Joe. “When it comes to bread, less water means fewer “pockets of steam” and a richer (and sometimes greasier) final texture. But sometimes, you want these pockets of steam (like “scones”), and other times the result is very greasy.”
When is it not too fatty? When using super-fat butter as “fat” (per person). “Excellent European butters are the best to spread directly on bread,” says Joe. “When butter is the star, use your best.”
But she also recommends it for laminated doughs, such as crispy croissants, as well as shortcrust doughs and sauces that are finished with butter.
Yes, “fancy” butter can be expensive. But there are times when it may be a “fun worth it” (rewarding indulgence). As Guarnaselli says: “I always believe in working within a budget. When possible, high-quality butter can really elevate the flavor of anything.”
Whether you're preparing a batch of “Queen Aman” (kouign-amans) filled with butter layers or serving homemade sourdough bread ready to be spread with something special, you'll want to serve your best. While there's nothing wrong with cutting 80% fat American butter, I'm confident that with the first bite, you won't regret buying something more worthy of the occasion.
Source: eating well
